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The ethnic use of silver jewelry in Yemen

The use of jewelry has always been widespread in Yemeni society, and it is an interesting fact that Jews and Muslims wore different pieces of jewelry. There was a big difference in the use of traditional jewelry, from one area of ​​the country to other areas, what was worn and when was clearly defined in each place.

Amber beads were mainly worn by Sanaani Muslim women, but in rural areas they were also worn by Jewish girls.

Rural areas presented fewer differences than large cities such as Sana’a. City life for Jews was more inland and had less contact with the Muslim population.

Most of the jewelers were themselves Jewish and worked long hours on minute details to generate those beauties made of fine filigree.

The fact that Jewish and Muslim women’s clothing was different shows another reason why different jewelry was worn. Muslim women used to wear head scarves and Jewish women an accessory called a gargush, which looks like a hood. The jewelry needed by Muslim women was primarily to hold scarves together, Jewish jewelry was pieces to add to the hood, such as gold filigree, silver brooches, coins such as the Maria Theresia Thaler, and various dangling beads. Some of the gargush pendants were shaped like things from everyday life, such as grains of wheat or barley, which were used to make bread every day. Shapes that represent the fertility of nature give symbolic meaning to clothing and jewelry.

Another interesting aspect in the relations between Muslims and Jews in Yemen was the fact that for some specific occasions, it was important to wear jewelry made by “the other”, that is, that is not us, our community or made by a foreigner. These jewels were supposed to carry a special blessing (baraka). Spherical beaded dugags were normally worn by Muslim women on a daily basis, but were worn especially by Jewish women on their wedding day. Jewish children also wear spherical dugags for added protection. The special care of women and children comes from exposure to many pregnancies without medical attention and the natural vulnerability of children.

Jewish silversmiths used to have both Muslim and Jewish clients, they also used to work for real Muslims, especially working with gold instead of the usual silver. These jewelers also worked decorating the daggers used by Muslims but not by Jewish men. This decoration includes some parts of the dagger such as amulets and other accessories used with the belt and the dambia

It is an interesting point that some of the jewelers were rabbis, they used to study the sacred texts and also dedicated their lives to goldsmithing. What I find very interesting is that, as they were students of the Kabbalah and the Bible, they knew the symbolic meaning of the designs, their amuletic connotations and their connection with the Kabbalistic texts. The fine techniques used in the creation of Yemeni jewelry were passed down generation after generation as family secrets. During the last rule of the Imam of Yemen, some Jewish silversmiths were called upon to teach their skills to Muslim jewellers, as the majority of the Jewish community left the country for the Holy Land. Today there is some new Jewish style jewelry, but the old originals show the best techniques, such as Bedihi granulation and the best examples of Bawsani filigree.

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